There is little doubt, but that the daffodil, or to give it its correct botanical name, Narcissus, is one of the most joyous flowers of all. The sight of ‘A host of golden daffodils’ in the local park, in the grass verges along the motorway or in one’s own garden, never fails to bring cheer into the lives of passers-by after a long dark winter.
In Ireland, the daffodil season can run from February to May. The season is, of course, determined by the weather and the soil. Harsh, cold or wet conditions result in a late display, whilst mild, dry weather or light soil will bring early blooms. This brings it own lottery to those who like to venture to the show bench. What might look likely to be a suitable date, when planning for the spring show the previous autumn, can prove to be most unfortunate if the (shall we say ‘seasonable’?) weather on Howth Peninsula decides that it does not wish to co-operate.
There are twelve divisions of daffodils, of which the exhibitor needs to be familiar with four. Trumpet, where the corona (centre of the flower) is longer than the perianth or petals, is the most common. The Large Cup division is where the corona is between one third and full length of the perianth. In the Small Cup division, the corona is less than one-third of the full length of perianth. In the Double division there can be one or more flowers to a stem, with doubling of the perianth Segments or the corona or both. Other divisions are Triandrus, Cyclaminus and Jonquilla.
The daffodil bulbs are generally available in garden centres in August and it is recommended not to leave the buying of bulbs too late as the better varieties can go quickly from the shelves. Daffodils may be grown in flower beds or can be naturalised, forming a golden carpet in grass or wild garden, but dwarf forms are best in rock gardens or troughs, brightening the landscape or patio in the otherwise dull spring days when other plants have not yet decided to put in an appearance
Planting is best done in early autumn. As a general rule daffodils should be planted at about their Own depth in heavy soil and up to twice their own depth in light sandy soil or very dry places. In heavy soil, the addition of a small mound of sharp sand under each bulb will help to keep the bulb from rotting. A sprinkling of a slow release fertiliser raked into the levelled soil is the only other requirement. What could be easier?
If you want the naturalised look, try to sow the bulbs in informal drifts under apple trees or in the lawn. By scattering the bulbs, as if sowing seed, before planting, the clumps will look much better than if planted in single rows. Equally, it is advisable to divide existing stocks every few years, but especially if the clump has failed to flower.
After flowering, there is always the temptation to tie down the leaves in neat bundles or to cut the leaves off altogether. However, they should be left undisturbed for six to eight weeks so that the bulb can build up a store of nutrients for the following year. The few weeks of unsightly leaves is a small price to pay for all the pleasure gained at a time of year when everyone is still waiting for the joy of summer.
Daffodils
William Wordsworth